Recently, I wrote how my excitement to try Milani’s Conceal+Perfect 2-in-1 Foundation+Concealer quickly turned to disappointment when it didn’t look very pretty on me. After all the buzz around this foundation, I really wanted to make it work for me so I kept playing around with it and discovered some tricks that ensure I achieve a beautiful result every time I reach for this.
I have come to the conclusion that this really is a great foundation that’s worth the hype. But this is not as easy foundation. It’s not one to reach for on lazy (AKA no-makeup look) days. It’s the one to grab when you’re short on time. This process I outline below involves several steps (5 to be exact; though you could conceivably combine Steps #1-2 if you have a favorite water-based daytime moisturizer that gives you broad-spectrum SPF of 30 or more. I’ve just never found one). This may require more time than you may have most mornings. So you may want to save this for special occasions or days when you have extra time because the result is beautiful and worth the effort.
Some basic concepts to help you achieve the best results:
• First and foremost you need to understand the chemical composition of this foundation. It’s oil-free and made up primarily of water and silicones (if you’re interested I’ve included the full ingredient list at the bottom of this post and highlighted all the silicones for reference). So you want to diminish the amount of oil on the surface of your skin and avoid using any products that contains oils to ensure prettiest application and longest wear-time of the foundation. Hint – this is NOT the time to use Wayne Goss’ famous add a drop of oil to your foundation trick. Instead, you want to follow a couple of other Wayne Goss tips, blotting your face of excess oil throughout the application process and carefully avoiding any products that counteract the ingredients in this foundation.
• With each step/trick, I try to give several options for the products I suggest. You almost certainly can get this done with products you have on hand once you get the idea of the types of products that work. Then check out your stash for similar options you could try.
• I’ve done a complete review of the foundation below for anyone who may be curious about this foundation. You can read that review posted separately here.
• Each of the following steps are based on prepping the skin to be in the best condition to receive this foundation, so the makeup applies its best and has every chance to last 10 hours (or longer). In order to make this foundation work, you need to use products that have similar ingredients to Conceal+Perfect….again, reference the ingredient list – avoid oils and stick to water or silicone-based products. When I first tried to use this foundation, my biggest problem (when I had bad results) was trying to apply it over several oil-based moisturizing products which were basically counterproductive.
Application Steps and My Tips:
Step #1 – Prep your skin with a good silicone-based oil-free antioxidant serum followed by a water-based moisturizer. The type of serum and moisturizer you use are important. This is NOT the time to use your trusty Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing+ Lotion (it’s a sesame oil base) or to use Argan Oil (yes, it is good for you, but it won’t work here). My favorite antioxidant serums are from Paula’s Choice, and Paula’s Choice Resist Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum is absolutely brilliant under tricky foundations like this one. It provides an extraordinary cocktail of anti-aging skin goodies in a super-light silicone base with zero oil. Top your serum of choice with a good oil-free moisturizer. CeraVe’s PM Moisturizing Lotion (or CVS’s awesome generic version, pictured above) and Neutrogena’s Hydro Boost Gel-Cream Extra-Dry Skin or Hydro Boost Water Gel (for normal/combination skins) are great oil-free moisturizer that absorb quickly while providing excellent hydration and skin-beneficial ingredients like hyaluronic acid. Allow lotion to absorb into skin at least five minutes. Then move on to Step #2.
Step #2 – Using a plain tissue (do NOT use the kind with added lotion or emollients), oil-blotting paper or even TP (no shame), lightly blot away any excess moisture from your face. If you’re applying this foundation at night, you can go ahead and skip ahead to Step #3 now.
If you are getting ready to go out during the daytime, you now want to apply a lightweight easily absorbed sunscreen with broad spectrum sun protection of at least SPF30. I like Coppertone Clearly Sheer Faces Broad Spectrum SPF50 (which is an all-chemical sunscreen best for non-sensitive skin types) or Neutrogena pure & free Liquid Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF50 with purescreen® (all-mineral sunscreen best for sensitive skins. Read more about this product and other inexpensive broad-spectrum sunscreens here). Both these products have a thin, almost watery consistency that absorbs quickly. The Coppertone option is a chemical sunscreen so it absorbs more easily leaving no white or gray cast behind, but it’s also more likely to cause an allergic reaction in the most sensitive individuals. Allow sunscreen a few (3-4) minutes to absorb. Then proceed to Step #3.
Step #3 – Blot your face again (oily skin types, do NOT skip this step). Then apply a silicone-based primer to your T-zone and any other areas where your foundation tends to apply unevenly or break up during the day. Allow primer to set at least 3-5 minutes. Then blot again (yes, again!) with a clean tissue or blotting paper.
A few of my favorite primers for this application include: L’Oréal Revitalift Miracle Blur Instant Skin Smoother Finishing Cream SPF30; Garnier Skin Renew 5 Second Blur Instant Smoother; Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer (I have the Green Color-correcting one, but they’re all terrific); Napoleon Perdis Auto Pilot Radiance Boosting Primer (this is the best primer for dry or aging skin). Give your primed skin at least 3 minutes to allow primer and other products to fully absorb and skin to be completely dry before proceeding to actual foundation application (Step #4).
Step #4 – Use a damp makeup sponge apply 1 pump Milani Conceal+Perfect foundation and 1 pump (3-4 drops) of your favorite oil-free BB Cream (my favorite is Dr. Jart’s Premium BB Cream SPF45+ though be careful with this because it contains a teeny amount of soybean oil) or an oil-free highlighter (dry skins or anyone looking for a more sheer more luminous finish). My favorite liquid highlighters for this step include: Revlon PhotoReady Skinlights (which is an excellent inexpensive liquid illuminator but has become increasingly difficult to find in stores though according to Revlon’s website indicates that this product has not been discontinued) and NYX Cosmetics Born to Glow Liquid Illuminator. Stay away from Becca’s Shimmering Skin Enhancer in this case, though. Because even though it’s a terrific liquid highlighter and comes in some really flattering shades, it contains both avocado and mineral oils, so it will cause the foundation to break apart and look patchy.
Build this foundation in thin layers if you’re a makeup novice (like me) and not an expert makeup artist. It’s easier and ensures a prettier result. For the final layer, I like to mix equal parts Conceal+Perfect foundation and concealer (my current favs are Tarte’s Shape Tape and Maybelline’s Instant Age Rewind Eraser Dark Circle Treatment Concealer ) on the back of my hand and dab that mixture in a triangle shape under my eyes and cheek area using my finger. Then I’ll blend this mixture out using my damp beautyblender® sponge. Finally, I’ll use a small amount of foundation to touch up any other blemishes or discolorations needing additional concealing before moving onto finishing touches (Step #5).
Step #5 – Once you are satisfied with the level of coverage you’ve achieved, blend out any creasing and set this product with your favorite setting powder. There are lots of good ones available in all price ranges so don’t get carried away by the hype. I definitely recommend setting this foundation with powder, even for drier skins but especially for those with combo to oily skins not only to avoid creasing but for best longevity and most flawless result. If you have the time, you can also bake the undereye or areas where large pores are an issue. And I like to finish with a few spritzes of setting spray. My current favorite setting spray is E.L.F.’s Makeup Mist and Set but any oil-free setting spray will work.
Additional Notes on Application: Milani states this foundation may be applied, “…with fingertips or a brush beginning at the center of the face, blending outward.” I prefer applying this with a damp beautyblender® type sponge. I had some success using my finger as well, but I just really dislike apply foundation with fingers. For some reason I dislike the feeling of it on my fingers and hands. Has nothing to do with the texture of this particular product. Actually, if you enjoy using your fingers to apply foundation, this may be a good match for you because the warm of your fingers may help you spread this around. Because it’s thicker than your typical liquid foundation (MUF’s Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation for example), I found that applying it with a brush left streaks and wasn’t very pretty. I wouldn’t try brush application unless you’re lucky enough to own an Artis (oval 7) foundation brush. Finally, though Milani suggests applying “a dime-sized amount of product,” all at once, I’d caution against it. I suggest applying thinner layers until achieving desired level of coverage. Trying to apply too much all at once tends to make the product bunch up and look heavy.
Summary: Remember that this foundation is oil-free and composed primarily of water and silicones, so you want to take the time to prep your skin using water and silicone-based products and control any surface oil you may have on your skin. Avoid using any products that contain oil. Dry or combo skin types will want to use a water-based moisturizer and allow sufficient time for it to absorb. Then tissue off excess moisture before applying a light broad-spectrum sunscreen and silicone-based primer. Those with oily skin will want to take extra care to prime skin with an oil-controlling primer and tissue off excess oil between each step. Because this foundation is thick, it is best applied in thin layers with a damp makeup sponge. You can thin it out even more by adding a drop or 2 of highlighter or BB cream. You can also mix it with your favorite (oil-free) concealer to highlight and brighten. Be sure to set this product with your preferred setting powder and finish with your favorite setting spray (if desired).
Ingredient List: Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isononyl Isononanoate (oil-free emollient), Cetyl Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Mica (shine), Glycerin (oil-free emollient), BIS-PEG/PPG Dimethicone, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone, Ozokerite (wax), Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Beeswax (wax), Glycereth-18 Ethylhexanoate (oil-free emollient), Potassium Sorbate, Silica, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xanthan Gum, Isododecane, Propylene Carbonate, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Glycereth-18, Aluminum Dimyristate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Allantoin, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyisobutene, C18-21 Alkane. +/- May Contain: Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
Wisdom for the Day:
All of us, then, reflect the glory of the Lord with uncovered faces; and that same glory, coming from the Lord, who is the Spirit, transforms us into his likeness in an ever greater degree of glory. ~II Corinthians 3:18 (Good News Translation)
Read more here.